Need help with window design
I want to place an open end widow in my new pond. Stainless steel frame, U shape build into a 290mm concrete cavity wall with the top end of frame open, showing only glass on top. The pond will be fiber glassed.
The window will be 2m wide and 750mm in height. The water clearance jump will be approximately 125mm leaving the window 625mm x 2m in water.
My pond will be 4.9m x 2.9m by 2.1m Volume 27000 to 30000lts,
Questions:
1. Will the open top section be a problem?
2. What will thickness will the laminated glass need to be? 2m L x 750 H x?
3. Which will be the best company to approach that has experience with underwater glass? PG any one else?
4. Any other comments welcome! Also OOOM Pieter you are more than welcome. lol


The pond will be built 750mm higher than the stoep area facing the front door. The window will run on top of stoep area, starting from the stairs on the right to the pillar on the left. This will enable me to see the Koi from inside the house from the stairs via the front door glass and also from my new den below. It will also be my feeding area. Being a LG it will be a nice to have.

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Hi Bobby, the glass place I visited suggested that I use the same principles used for aquariums, as the width/lenght of the aquarium/pond itself does not play a major role.

I used the following chart. According to this you have to use 16 mm. I would just go for 20 mm.

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Weet nie of hierdie 2 sites van enige waarde sal wees nie:


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Dankie Julle

Paul het jy dalk naam van verskaffer en met wie jy gesels het?

LG,

Sal jou skakel

Day 1 Brickwork 19 October 2009

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Begin goed lyk. As ek mag vra, waarvoor is die openinge van die stene op die onderste laag wat sigbaar is op die fotos?

Hi Maruis

Ek dink hulle noem dit "weep holes"? Die cavity word skoongemaak en gespuit na bouwerk. Stene word nou weer ingemessel voordat cavity met concrete gevul word. Dit verhoed dat jou concrete vulsel op ou sement gaan vassit wat sterkte gaan inboed. Nou voel ek darem baie slim, so dankie vir die vraag en vir die geleentheid om van myself 'n totale poephol te maak.

More word die staal verleng en gebind teen bestaande staal, backfill en cavity fill word gedoen en die proses begin van voor af nadat daar eers 'n laag brickforce op gesit is. Daar word ook lengtes y10 staal dwars gebind vir sterkte.

OooM Pieter het vanmiddag geskakel, ek kan nie sy gevleulde woorde herhaal nie, maar hy beveel sterk aan dat ek Marbelite gebruik in plek van Glasvesel. Nou ja as OOOM Pieter praat dan luister ek, so asb weet iemand van 'n goeie kontak in die Kaap met ondervinding?

Ek is bang as ek nie luister nie, dan bring hy van daardie sandfilters om my 'n nagmerrie te gee!

Why does SF think you should not use fiber glass is that not the number 1 method ????

Oom Bobby that is looking awsome cant wait to pop in and meet you, you look like a guy that does not cut corners, now i have lernt somthing with those weep holes.

O yes sorry about your team, Maybe next year !!! can i bring you a Bulls jersey what size are you.

Hi Angry, I was also under the impression that it was the no 1 method, but as I said I do not want to differ with SF so I will investigate!

Any one in the Cape with Marbelite experience, Positive or Negative? Personally l was under the impression that it cracks. Pieter says it also replace the need for plaster, its done all in one and very smooth!

Thanks for the offer, my size is only available at tent @ tarpaulin, but I will stick to my WEE PEE even if its more weep @ Pee than joy

Oom Bobby here is the number of the guy that did my pool, my pool is fiber glass but im sure he knows or might even do it for you,Cascade Pools Agmed 0790716378 I had really good service from him just tell him you got his number from Shawn in sandown estate hope it helps.

The different filter levels pipe work, waste pipes and big ball valves is going to be very tricky. The build in the center is the lowest point of the sump. lots of filling still required in this area.

Planning of electrical, water inlets, waste pipe outlets, BD aeration connections and steps next. I hope I will get away with not too many mistakes like when done the Nexus 300 do not fit.

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Hi,

Net 'n verwysing, na een van my "posting" elders op hierdie forum

Quote :

My first choice will be,
Fibreglass,
Marble-lite,
Hydro Seal...............................but as the best is always the most expensive!

Ek het my tweede keuse in Bobby se geval aanbeveel, omdat hy 'n " glas venster" aan sy nuwe dam wil aanbring.

Graag verwys ek na 'n geval; waar veselglas gebruik was en waar 'n vertoon glas in "gebou" was.
Daar het 'n lek by die "venster" ontslaan en water het tussen die vesel glas en die dam muur in gekom, met die gevolg dat die veselglas van die muur losgekom het. Die "cavity" was later gevul met water en die veselglas het geskeur.
Na 'n groot gesukkel was die veselglas verwyder en die probleem was opgelos deur die venster met marble-lite terug te bou en die dam daarmee te seel.

Veselglas is ook tweemaal duurder as marble-lite.
Bevoorbeeld; ek het kwotasie verkry om twee damme ( 36 000lt en 55 500lt) met veselglas te verseel, teen 'n koste van R 67 456-00 en dan moes die damme eers aan die binnekant glad gepleister word.
Ek het die damme later met marble-lite gedoen teen die koste van R 33 000-00 in die kleur van my keuse.

Ek dog ek noem dit maar net

Pieter I get comments that the marble-lite tends to crack in the Western Cape weather. Seker soos Wee Pee

Day 2
We have already uses 260m of y10 steel bars for the wall strengthening I orders another 130m today.
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Any update on the glass for window? I must install mine soon. Wanted to wait till December but I think the sooner the better before I upset the QT to much. I am also worried about the open top part, but my window will only be about 1m x +-500mm

LG,

Marble-lite kraak net as dit droog word, wanneer daar geen water vir 'n tyd in die dam was nie.

Wanneer die "dop" van die dam nie goed versterk is nie sal dit veroorsaak dat dit kraak, die rede hiervoor is dat julle daar in die Kaap meestal op "sand" bou.

Ek glo nie dat jou dam konstruksie sal kraak nie.

Moet nie alles glo wat jy hoor nie!

Maruis wrote:

Any update on the glass for window?

I called a company called Smart Glass GSA and spoke to a technical persons by the name of Dave Helling on 021 931 8361 re my window. He also advised that over time the open/exposed glass on top can de-laminate over time, unless I do some silicone treatment on the top part.
MY glass size 2100 x 750 to allow for the rebate of the aluminum frame and open on top. With a water level of 650 in the glass and a jump clearance of a 100 the glass thickness to be 32mm and should the water level increase by another 50mm the glass thickness should be 42

The 32mm is 3 layers of 10mm glass with a Vinyl inter-layer in between.

AQUA Multi Laminate Glass a safety and shatterproof class was recommended.

A Andre Tucker then gave me a cost of R 3895.00 (32MM) and R 5152.00 (42MM) respectively.

7 - 10 days delivery time.

DAY 4, Tomorrow we will be out of the ground level and without the back-filling it should go quicker

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A long way to go in the walk-in filter pit. This is only the waste pipes that will be needed and all to purge in the sump. I need to add more rainwater pipes from the house tomorrow.

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Cleaning today's excess cement, ready for concrete fill tomorrow

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No further comments, ideas, contacts no no's on the glass project?

No mid water returns?

Let me see if the following statement gets a reaction.
A well known Koi Expert (it’s me saying this SF) made a statement about fiber glass the other day. When the construction of your pond is sound you do not need to use the fiber matting. As we all know it’s the matting that causes the sharp points and damage our koi if undetected earlier.
I would use coprox, one box to a bag of cement for the plastering.
When your construction is sound you only need to paint 2 layers of resin and then add the flo-coat. You have an option to use a tissue like matting that will further smooth the walls without the sharp edges.
My first pond is fiber glassed with no problem to date, except for the damage done to some of my Koi before the sharp edges was detected, no thanks to my expert fiber glassier.
The extreme heat in my area is a concern for using marble- lit, although I am exploring the option.

COMMENTS PLEASE

Ernst wrote:

No mid water returns?

Ernst, After a years debate, inner struggle, questions, forum questions, more questions, and more debate, I have opted for calmer waters as recommend by Evolution Aqua. Three returns, one pumped direct from Nexus and 2 gravity fed returns 100mm below water level via trickle towers in a 90mm pipe, creating water turn but not strong flow as many believe essential for body shape. It might bite me in the backside but I have past the point of return. I know Drikus and you have a different theory and I feel a bit silly for not doing the same, but I will have to live with my desision and bite the bullit. cowboys don't cry se Naas

There is a lot of theory about this. In a mudpond a koi must dig for his/her food which gives them good bodies as it's hard work, in my pond they just poke their heads out of the water and catch the pellets flying form the auto feeder!

My pond is around 7m long. I have a section where it's very quiet and very little current. That's where I find them at night - on the bottom resting. Sometimes the big ones take a siesta in the day there as well. Then I have a section where I have loads of surface and deep water current - and that's where they hang out in the day - swimming and playing. I think they are trying to tell us something!

Bobby wrote:

No further comments, ideas, contacts no no's on the glass project?

Thanks for the helpful info. Think I must get a 20mm just incase. Will try to get some contact numbers for you over the weekend