Ek is ietwat verwar oor die kH vlakke in my dam. Op die internet word daar beweer dat die kH van die water hoog moet wees sodat pH stabiel kan bly.
My kraanwater het ph >9 (test kid meet net tot by 9) met kH van 4.
Lesings in die dam is pH 8.5(aand) en so 8.3(oggend) met kH van 5

Dit moet in ag geneem word dat my dam 6maande oud is en ek het al die water 3maande gelede uitgetap om kraak te herstel, so in effek is dam 3 maande oud.

Wat my verwar is dat my pH stabiel bly wat daarop dui dat water 'ge-buffer' is afgesien van die feit dat kH ver te laag is volgens inligting versamel.

Ek gebruik 'n SERA test box en volgens die inligting wat gepaard gaan met die kH toets meld dit dat lesings van 5 tot 10dKH idiaal is.

Kan iemand my dalk op die regte spoor plaas??

Groete
Marius

kH moet op na so om en by 9. Dit gee ook jou visse toegang to calcium wat nodig is vir gesonde skelette.

Dankie Colin

Ek het gedink dat my water reg moet wees aangesien alles en almal gelukkig lyk. Sekerlik het ek dit met iets anders verwar. Wil nie te veel karring aan dinge wat reg is nie. Natuur moet meeste self uitsorteer sonder menslike invloed waar moontlik

Hi Marius

Die koi wereld is vol teenstrydige inligting en 'n mense moet maar self jou eie besluit probeer maak deur logies tedink oor wat reg klink.

Ons word aangeraai op die kh bo 80 tehou om die PH stabiel tehou deur 'n dag. 'n lae kh veroorsaak PH swings...PH is gewoonlik laer in oggend ure en hoer in die laat middag, 'n hoer kh verminder die hoeveelheid met wat die PH beweeg. 'n PH wat teveel beweeg is ook gevaarlik vir koi.

'n mens word ook altyd gewaarsku teen 'n PH crash. 'n crash gebeur gewoonlik wanneer die PH rondom 'n PH van 5 of onder val. Wat gebeur is dat die water verander en acidic raak, die bacteria in filter vrek en so ook die koi. Die crash gebeur gewoonlik vroeg in die oggend waneer die PH swing plaas vind en die kh telaag is.

Nou hoe hou mens die kh hoog? Party mense gebruik Bicarbonate of soda en ander gebruik oester skulpe.

Om die kh bo 80 tehou moet 'n mens Bicarbonate of soda weekliks in gooi en die kh weekliks monitor. Oester skulpe werk weer op 'n ander manier en meeste mense se dat 'n mens baie van dit nodig het en dat dit nie eintlik werk nie maar wat ek onlangs gehoor en self ontdek het is dat oester skulpe slegs begin werk wanneer die ph on 6 gaan en die water meer acidic raak. Slegs teen 'n meer acidic PH word die oester skulpe "verteer" en kalsium los gelaat...die kalsium stoot dan die kh op wat dan weer die PH opstoot en dis hoe skulpe ook keer dat 'n crash voorkom. So as jou PH bo 6 is gaan jy nie somer sien dat jou oester skulpe werk nie. Mens kan ook skulpe sien werk teen hoer PH's wanneer die Skulpe gebreek is. As die skulpe gebreek is word die kalsium makliker losgelaat. Ek gebruik oester skulpe in my dam en my dam water se kh is hoer as my kraan water wat my water source is.

Nou nadat ek al die maniere verduidelik het gaan ek alles deur mekaar gooi deur tese dat mens nie die kh hoef te monitor nie....want as 'n mens weekliks jou water veranderinge doen en jou kraan water stabiel is sal jou dam water stabiel bly. Ek persoonlik verkies om nog steeds oester skulpe in my filter stelsel tehou.

My kraan water se PH is 8.5 en my kh is 30 maar my dam water is PH 8.5 en my kh is 50.

Wayne

Baie dankie vir die puik beskrywing van kH.

Het so bietjie navorsing gedoen en die rede hoekom ek kH van 5 in my dam kry is omdat dit in grade kH is. Elke graad is gelykstaande aan 17.8 ppm.
Dus is my kH van water 89ppm wat meer aanvaarbaar is.

Die meer tegniese mense kan gerus die volgende lees

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/khgh.html

Dit is ook opvallend dat as die pH te hoog is en die kH te laag is daar te min CO2 in water is. Dus moet 'n goeie balans gehandhaaf word

Groete
Marius

Raising kH

If you test your kH and it falls below the minimum 80 PPM, then you need to raise it gradually. This is done by simply adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). But, remember the importance of keeping the fish's environment stable? Well, it is for this reason that you should never raise your kH more than 20 PPM per
24-hour period. For example, if your kH was 40 PPM, you will have to add the baking soda twice over a 48-hour period, with each addition being 24 hours apart, to get it to the minimum 80 PPM.

NOTE: You should recheck your kH reading 24 hours after each addition of baking soda to make sure it is not increasing more than desired due to some sort of miscalculation on your part, such as pond gallonage or baking soda measurement, etc. Also, you must be aware that baking soda has a consistent pH of 8.4, and will raise the pH of your pond to this figure if it is below that. Also, be sure to check your ammonia in your pond before the addition of baking soda. Ammonia becomes much more toxic as the pH rises above the neutral reading of 7,so if you have any ammonia in your pond I would not recommend the addition of the baking soda until you get the ammonia to 0 ppm.

The general rule of thumb for increasing your kH is by 20 PPM increments every 24 hours, by adding ½ cup of baking soda per every 4,000 L of pond water. For smaller volumes you would add about 1/4 TEASPOON for every 40L of water to raise the kH 20 PPM. Remember, however, to recheck your kH and pH 24 hours after each addition. It is also wise to keep an eye on your fish for any adverse reactions during this period, but if you have calculated correctly, there should be none. You would have to be off tenfold to really see a negative reaction from the fish.

CAN ANY ONE TELL ME HOW TO RAISE MY KH OF 89 BUT LOWER THE 8.5pH IN MY POND SINCE BICARB WILL KEEP pH AT 8.4. All the 'baddies' behaves worse at high pH levels, or am I wrong or just to much in a hurry since the pond is not fully matured yet

Regards
Marius

Marius Bezuidenhout wrote:

CAN ANY ONE TELL ME HOW TO RAISE MY KH OF 89 BUT LOWER THE 8.5pH IN MY POND SINCE BICARB WILL KEEP pH AT 8.4. All the 'baddies' behaves worse at high pH levels, or am I wrong or just to much in a hurry since the pond is not fully matured yet

Marius, all koi keepers go through this cycle of "trying to control PH and kh" you will soon realise that it just can't be done.

kh affects ph - so if you push up your kh your will also inadvertently be pushing up your ph.

Books and the web tell you that koi needs a PH of 7.3 and a kh of 8+ but water quality and makeup are not the same around the world.

If you want to control kh, do that but ignore ph. The ph will stabilise to what is "normal" for your koi pond and water makeup. I am a firm believer in not trying to control ph or kh but just to do regular water changes once a week. I also believe in adding oyster shells to release minerals and calsium over a long period of time.

I have a 32 000L pond and have 75 liters of oyster shells and that seems to be enough to buffer the water to a kh of 5. It does not work overnight and takes about 6 months for you to start seeing a difference. I also add motmorelite clay to the water weekly.

I want you to go and read these article and then rethink your approuch.

magic water -
http://www.yumekoi.com/images/stories/pdfs/april_2003.pdf

softly does it
http://www.yumekoi.com/images/stories/pdfs/aug_2003.pdf

Wayne

Thanks Wayne

I still have plenty to learn. The more natural, the better and don't want to add chemicals if I don't have to. The UV's and Matala are doing very well so at least I am on the right track for a start.

Thank you for a good article