hiers hy

nog een

plasiek pypie tot by die vingers op gesit en werk mooi

Vossie,

Knap gedaan, jy kan trots wees op jouself!
Hoe werk dit, is jy tevrede?

hy werk pieter maar ek dink die pypie is onder effens toe geknyp ek gaan hom more net check maar hy blaas redelik al klaar

O ja net vergeet daai deksel is ver dik genoeg en ek glo nie hy sal sommer kraak nie

Vossie,

Ek het van die begin af gedink die delsel is 'n beter bet!
Ek hoor dit het jou net R 95 gekos!?
Ha! Alweer is ek reg, dis tog so lekker Viva SF

Hoe lyk die sand nadat jy met die "air" ge-"backwash" het?

Pieter dit het meskien vir my goedkoop gewees maar onthou baie van die goed het ek gehad so die prys wat neville vra is reg want ek het nie die hub vervang nie en die kraan sowel as die quik coupler het ek gehad

daarby moet ek se as ek dieselle filters as neville gehad het sou ek dit ook op die kant gesit het

Wat die backwash betref sal ek eers kan sien as die sand behoorlik vuil is en mok onderin het dis eers dan wat ek sal weet of ek by die bestaande vingers gaan bly en of ek dit gaan vervang met neville se tipe

Hi Guy's,

You will actually save a lot more money with one of these, according to the spec's it will get up to 3 Bar, no problem.

Vossie,

Jammer lyk my ek het jou verkeerd verstaan!

http://southafricankoi.11.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=949

ek haal jou aan vanaf bo vermelde link:

Quote :

net vir intresantheid alles het my R95 uit gewerk saam met die kraan as ek hom moes koop ek het gelukkig nog twee hier gehad

I've been thinking about doing this conversion, I have a filter like Neville's and to be honest I am not too keen to drill into the shell of the sand filter. So I was thinking, the inlet pipe into the sand filter, what if I was to add a T Piece onto the inlet pipe, with a stopper on the t piece section and I add the air valve onto that and have the air pipe flowing thru the inlet pipe from the T piece and all the way down the 50mm inlet pipe that leads to the fingers. That way I am not drilling into anything, only an end 50mm stopper piece for 50mm piping which is a few rands.

Think that would work???

Would probably need to do some pictures if the explanation above isn't very clear.

thanks again

Hi Cliff,

See the photo.



Is this what you thinking about?

Exactly that Pieter......was thinking of doing that so as to prevent drilling into the actual filter casing.......did you do this on yours? Only thing is I would have the tpiece like that but just by the inlet pipe to the sand filter with the air pipe on the inside leading towards the fingers.

Is this on your setup and how does it work?

Cliff,

No, the photo was one of the experiments done on Neville’s sand filter.

You could do it your way. But then you must take the Multi valve on the filter inconsideration!
In other words the T - connection should be fitted between the multi valve and the sand filter fore you to push the Air pipe down the inlet pipe to the bottom of the sand filter.

What I am going to do is to use one of the feet of the sand filter in question( which is square) to drill the whole for the air fitting.
I will further use to rubber washers ( 2mm thick) on the fiber glass shell to absorb the vibration to the shell.

Hi Pieter

Forgot about the multiport valve. So what if I left the air pipe and only did the valve on the tpiece? I'm sure together with the water it would flow towards the fingers as that would be the only exit point for the air? Was this part of the test? If so how did it work?

Cliff,

It can work that way, you only need to equalize the air and water pressure in the pipe, if not the air will “run” back into the pump.

Please note that this method is not as effective as when you deliver the air to the bottom of the sand filter.

The best way to enter this “green” filter is through one of the feet.

Almal worry oor die sandfilter wat te veel druk gaan he en dan gaan bars STOP WORRY. N sandfilter se maximum druk word op 6baar gegee..Die .75kw pomp lewer direk aan die sandfilter minder as .5 baar druk en as jy die air by voeg om die sandfilter skoon te maak sal jou druk opgaan met .5bar so jy werk in toetaal met 1baar druk.Sit die valve op jou sandfilter waar dit vir jou die gamaklikste is om met die valve te werk.
O ja die bogenoemde inligting is met n presure meter getoets en die sandfilter se inligting is op al die vervaardigers se web sites beskikbaar

Frans ou Seun,

Die sand filter sal nie met 'n groot slag bars nie...............dit sal MET TYD KRAAK!
Om die koppeling stewig op die ronding van die sand filter te heg, word die filter dop [ "shell"] "reguit" gedwing deur die moer en wasser aan die binne en buite kant van die "shell"waneer die koppeling geheg word, wat veroorsaak dat dit daar verswak word. Vibrasie kan ook help dat die "shell" by hierdie punt gouer kan kraak.
Dink daaraan soos 'n "chip" op jou windskerm van jou kar, vibrasie,hitte, koue,drukking en atmosfeer verandering laat dit verder kraak..hoekom?
Omdat die glas deur die "chip" verswak is.

Niemand word gedwing om 'n besluit te neem, hoe hy sy sand filter in die geval moet aanpas nie.................dit is jou eie keuse!

Hi Frans

Jy is korrek in jou observasie. Die statement deur Pieter is sommer net iets wat ons noem "duim suig" en geen gewig dra en daar is geen waarhede aan verbonde, hy het geen toetse gedoen om sy stelling te bevestig en ek glo dit is totaal ongegrond.
Soos jy se sit hom waar dit vir jou gerieflik is.

Daar is drie punte omtrent glasvesel wat julle sal moet bestudeer maar ek sal dit maar los aangesien dit dalk `n jong oorloggie kan veroorsaak dis maar dingetjies wat ek geleer het met my boot bouency sertifikate wat ek uitreik en deur SAMSA goedgekeur is maar kom ons los dit daar my conversion het ek gedoen en hy werk mooi vir my doeleindes.

Frans,

Ek wil graag net se dat ek nie lieg of onwaar stories versprei nie! Nog minder wil ek 'n gek van myself op die forum maak!

Ek stel voor dat jy 'n biedjie huiswerk oor veselglas doen.

The basis of textile-grade glass fibers is silica, SiO2. In its pure form it exists as a polymer, (SiO2)n. It has no true melting point but softens at 2,000 °C (3,630 °F), where it starts to degrade. At 1,713 °C (3,115 °F), most of the molecules can move about freely. If the glass is then cooled quickly, they will be unable to form an ordered structure.[4] In the polymer, it forms SiO4 groups that are configured as a tetrahedron with the silicon atom at the center and four oxygen atoms at the corners. These atoms then form a network bonded at the corners by sharing the oxygen atoms.

The vitreous and crystalline states of silica (glass and quartz) have similar energy levels on a molecular basis, also implying that the glassy form is extremely stable. In order to induce crystallization, it must be heated to temperatures above 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) for long periods of time.[1]


Molecular Structure of GlassAlthough pure silica is a perfectly viable glass and glass fiber, it must be worked with at very high temperatures, which is a drawback unless its specific chemical properties are needed. It is usual to introduce impurities into the glass in the form of other materials to lower its working temperature. These materials also impart various other properties to the glass that may be beneficial in different applications. The first type of glass used for fiber was soda lime glass or A glass. It was not very resistant to alkali. A new type, E-glass, was formed; this is an alumino-borosilicate glass that is alkali free (<2%).[5] This was the first glass formulation used for continuous filament formation. E-glass still makes up most of the fiberglass production in the world. Its particular components may differ slightly in percentage, but must fall within a specific range. The letter E is used because it was originally for electrical applications. S-glass is a high-strength formulation for use when tensile strength is the most important property. C-glass was developed to resist attack from chemicals, mostly acids that destroy E-glass.[5] T-glass is a North American variant of C-glass. A-glass is an industry term for cullet glass, often bottles, made into fiber. AR-glass is alkali-resistant glass. Most glass fibers have limited solubility in water but are very dependent on pH. Chloride ions will also attack and dissolve E-glass surfaces.

Since E-glass does not really melt, but soften, the softening point is defined as "the temperature at which a 0.55–0.77 mm diameter fiber 235 mm long, elongates under its own weight at 1 mm/min when suspended vertically and heated at the rate of 5°C per minute".[6] The strain point is reached when the glass has a viscosity of 1014.5 poise. The annealing point, which is the temperature where the internal stresses are reduced to an acceptable commercial limit in 15 minutes, is marked by a viscosity of 1013 poise.[6]
HAPPY

Fransman,

Nee! Ek is baie ongelukkig..........vir copy en paste kry jy Nul!
Ag-nee man doen self biedjie navraag!!!!!

Nie nodig as ander dit reeds gedoen het nie, Mnr de Villiers U maak self baie gebruik van die Copy en Paste metode.