Catching and transporting a Koi is not difficult, it simply takes a little planning and practice. Even if you never plan to take your Koi anywhere you should be ready to.
Have a plan, the necessary equipment and practice catching and moving your Koi. The more you practice, the more experience you gain, and the less stressed you and your Koi will get.
Limit food intake before the trip to minimize ammonia build up once bagged.
The ideal way is to guide the Koi into a tub and not to lift the Koi out of the water if possible. Then scoup the fish out into a bag.
Alternatively, turn the net sideways so it cuts through the water and lift it at the right time.
Try to keep the net in front of the Koi's face. There are no scales on the head that can be damaged by a net.
Place the Koi in a plastic bag with just enough water to cover the fish then fill the bag with oxygene. (just cover the dorsal fin.)
Add 5-10 times the amount of oxygen as water
Only one large fish per large bag. Two refuse bags is quite suitable, especially the see through bags currently available.
Check your bags for leaks. It is not fun to get all ready to go and find water running out of a bag.
For safety, use double bags and put rubber bands on both.
The oxygene will keep the fish alive for at least 3 hours.
Fish are remarkably well adapted for extracting oxygen from the very low concentrations found in water.
Water with an oxygen concentration of less than 3 mg/l will generally not support fish.
If oxygene is not available, use a bigger bag with more water, and if possible, pump air into the bag with a normal airstone pump. This will be suffiecient for at least a 90 minute trip.
If a transport tank is being used for moving fish, an air stone or a tyre compressor can be used, connected to your ligher power supply.
Leave enough surface area in the bag to allow for gas/air exchange.
Cover the bagged fish to eliminate light and keep bagged fish out of direct sunlight and as cool as possible. Use an ice pack for longer trips. The cooler the water, the longer the oxygene will stay in the water. Koi are cold blooded, that is, their body temperature is essentially that of their environment.
Place the bag in a box for the trip to prevent injury to the fish, especially big fish.
The metabolism and activity increase with temperature which increases their oxygen demand.
It is important to remember that as fish respirate they create carbonic acid. The alkalinity of the water will try to neutralize the acids produced by the feaces of the fish. As a result you will find the pH drop. As a result, the ammonia the fish are producing will be converted to ammonium which is a far less toxic substance.
Place the head of a large fish directing towards the back of the vehicle. You do not want to convert the fish into a bull dog after a sudden brake.
Before you release the fish at your destination, never add water to the bag. The ph will shoot up and convert the ammonium to toxic ammonia.
When reaching the destination, release the fish as soon as possible but float it for at least 10 minutes. Why float the bag for another 25 minutes with low oxygene and high ammonia levels in the bag, unless there is is a big difference in water temperature?
Do not release the water in the bag into the pond. It might contain parasites and will contain ammonia.
Gently remove the fish from the bag and place it in the pond/quarantine facility, either with your hands or with a soft net. At this stage it is a good time to check for any injuries and you might want to measure your fish at this time before your release it.
Do not release the old water into the new pond.
Increase the salt contents of the water.
Cover the pond(new environment) with a net because they may jump.